InCosmetics Global is the world’s biggest cosmetics ingredients show and a linchpin for the future of beauty and personal care product NPD.
Here’s a roundup of some ingredients innovations that caught our eye at this year’s show…
A fast & needle-free alternative to skin plumping (a new HA)
LipoTrue says it has redefined the future of hyaluronic acid with SE(HA)+, which it dubs “a breakthrough in natural fermentation.”
The biotech-driven active is a naturally synthesised, enriched HA ferment for skin hydration, plumping, and resilience.
The ingredient uses an unique microorganism capable of naturally producing an enriched HA ferment.
“This innovation creates a HA-like, HA-booster ingredient that mimics and enhances the skin’s own hyaluronic acid network,” says the Barcelona-based company.
The results are deep, long-lasting hydration, improvements to skin architecture boosting collagen, elastin and fibrillin, and “a non-invasive, visible plumping effect.”
Lipotrue said that clinical studies show that Se(HA)+ “visibly reduces crow’s feet and nasolabial wrinkles in just 30 minutes, while enhancing lip volume in only 10 minutes, a rapid and needle-free alternative for those seeking immediate results.”
Plant-based retinol alternative for colour cosmetics
All the benefits of retinol, such as improved skin firmness and fine line reduction, without the associated skin irritation.
Sharon Personal Care by Eternis’ Pantrofina® Baokiol RSPO MB is a highly thermally stable, liposoluble active ingredient that expands the use of plant-based retinol alternative bakuchiol into the colour cosmetics segment, where high formulation temperatures are often required.
“Bakuchiol is gaining momentum as a retinol-alternative in the market, but it remains a challenging ingredient to work with,” said Naama Eylon, president of Sharon Personal Care.
Eye care that “strengthens the vascular network”
Mibelle Biochemstry’s VividEYE innovation is based on organic apple mint leaves.
According to the Swiss company, the innovation “strengthens the vascular network by reducing blood vessel leakage and stimulating the lymphatic structure for improved fluid drainage.”
Plant-based, twist-off capsules format
CosmoPod’s Capsules are an innovative beauty and personal care product format that can be used across a range of categories.
The plant-based, twist-off capsules offer differentiated benefits that can be practical in numerous situations, especially for travel-sized products.
Vegicaps capsules, for example, are derived from a special grade of carrageenan, an all-natural, plant-based seaweed extract.
Freezing gel texture
Seppic has introduced a new texture for cosmetics, Let it freeze!, which it dubs “a new magical face care texture.”
The company said that the gel network was constructed using a synergistic blend of Sepimax Zen™, Solagum™ Tara, and Sepinov™ WEO, selected for their thickening and stabilising properties.
Rheology modifier for skin care/sun care hybrids
Clariant has launched a high-tech rheology modifier that was designed for modern sun care products that are increasingly skin care hybrids.
Aristoflex SUN “ensures superior UV filter stability at optimal level, while creating the light, fresh textures ideal for daily UV protection products,” says the company, as it witnesses a “growing trend toward multi-functional skin care products.”
100%-natural preservatives
Symrise says Mindera is the “first 100%-natural solution for product protection. ”
It’s based around four pure plant-based molecules: Mindera™ Ma, Mindera™ Cin, Mindera™ CH and Mindera™ AA with patented combinations that “bring multifunctional properties, such as chelation, antioxidation, sebum reduction and more, together with high efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and moulds,” said the German cosmetics ingredients company.
Biodegradable malodour-neutralising technology
Iberchem VernovaPure is a biodegradable malodour neutralising technology that complies with the standards of Readily Biodegradable marked by OCDE, degrading by more than 60% within 28 days, with further degradation afterwards.
The company said it is “highly efficient in neutralising numerous malodours while reducing its impact on the environment.”
Natural biomimetic ceramide for scalp
The 100%-natural biomimetic ceramide protects the scalp barrier, which Croda Beauty Actives says is similar to the facial skin barrier.
Sphingo’HAIR Drypure is a bio-fermentation derived long chain fatty acids ceramide NP that acts “as cement in both scalp barrier and hair barrier structures”, says the company. It strengthens, protects and smooths hair and hydrates the scalp.
SWOP sun care
Univar Solutions’ Inverse Me SPF30 Suncare, a switch oil phase emulsion (SWOP), is a 100% mineral broad spectrum sun lotion formulated with a COSMOS approved and eco-safe mineral UV filter.
The metastable oil-water emulsion inverts into a water-oil emulsions on application when rubbed onto the skin.
The company said that the SWOP emulsion offers the best characteristics of both types of emulsions: the sensory profile of an oil-water emulsion during application with the performance advantages of the water-oil emulsion.
Kimchi-derived bio-novel material
White Tiger Company launched a Kimchi Filtrate Organic Preservative, which it said is the world’s first commercialised kimchi-derived cosmetic ingredient.
Live-active probiotic and postbiotic solutions
NanoSpun Technologies showcases its Ultra & UltraBio Product Lines, which represents the next generation of skin treatment with live-active probiotic and postbiotic solutions.
Stability at low concentration with no alcohol
Nikko Chemicals presented its Nikkosolve series of solubilisers designed to incorporate essential oils and fragrance blends into cosmetic formulations, delivering clarity and stability at lower concentrations without requiring alcohol.
Natural epigenetic ingredient
Dragon’s Blood is an extract from the latex of the Croton lechleri tree, with multiple beneficial properties for skin care treatments.
Its main components are: Proanthocyanidins, Taspine and Lignans and the company behind the ingredient, Cobiosa, said it has shown to be a natural epigenetic ingredient “capable of modulating the expression of microRNAs and genes.”
Cobiosa also launched AQStem ATACAMA, a biotechnological active ingredient derived from the stem cells of Cistanthe grandiflora, an ephemeral plant that thrives in the Atacama Desert. Utilising advanced stem cell technology, it enhances the skin’s natural hydration by activating aquaporins and regulating water homeostasis at a cellular level.