On March 12, CosmeticsDesign welcomed E. Paige Stout, PhD, Research and Product Innovation at Terns, Joan Li, Senior Consumer Insights Analyst at Mintel, and Christina Ross, Director of Science and Policy at Credo Beauty, for our editorial webinar, Advancing High Performance in Sun Care.
Throughout our conversation, we explored the cutting edge of sun care formulation within the broader theme of high-performance beauty. This included a deep dive into the science behind effective sun protection, with a spotlight on the latest innovations in SPF technology and the evolution of broad-spectrum sunscreens designed for superior performance.
Our panelists shared valuable insights into next-gen ingredients, advanced application techniques, and shifting consumer expectations, highlighting how today’s sun care products are increasingly designed not only to protect but to promote overall skin health and beauty. While attendees walked away with actionable strategies for formulating products that meet the high demands of today’s savvy skin care consumers, some burning questions remained unanswered.
We’re back to address those questions and more. If you missed our broadcast, the on-demand session is available here.
Question: How do you see the TikTok trend on NOT using sunscreen? Is it something that is passing or a serious threat?
Joan Li: The recent TikTok trend discouraging sunscreen use highlights deeper, long-standing consumer concerns about sunscreen ingredients and skepticism towards the sunscreen industry. According to Mintel data, 42% of consumers believe sunscreen ingredients harm human health, while 45% think they negatively impact the environment.
To address this, brands must take a proactive approach to combating misinformation, utilizing social media platforms and trusted dermatological endorsements to reflect consumers’ desire for transparency.
Question: How about PIH-based products with sunscreen? Will it be a trend?
Joan Li: The fusion of sunscreens with PIH treatments is well-poised by the popularity of multifunctional sunscreen with targeted skin health benefits. Mintel data reveals 42% of consumers actively seek anti-aging benefits in their sun care products, which can align with treatments focused on fading dark spots and promoting even skin tone.
Question: Longevity and Healthy Living are big trends. Are brands linking this to sun care, and if so, which brands are doing a good job at that?
Joan Li: Yes, longevity and healthy living are increasingly influencing sun care strategies. Premium brands like OneSkin, Pavise, and Duette have begun to talk about defending against oxidative stress and suncare’s role in well-aging of the skin at a cellular level.
There’s ample opportunity for mass and masstige brands to offer these benefits at a more accessible price point. Brands can also frame sunscreen as critical to a holistic daily health routine, making proactive protection a seamless part of longevity-focused lifestyles.
Dr. E. Paige Stout: Yes, skin health and longevity is an emerging trend. Brands such as Terns, focus on crafting effective and clean products to both prevent and repair the damaging effects of UV and environmental exposure.
Despite adequate sun protection, daily exposure to the sun and elements causes low-level chronic inflammation that accelerates signs of aging and increases risk of other skin health issues, such as skin cancer. Terns released their pilot products, Everyday Lotion and Mayday Gel Cream with unique nature-based and science-backed anti-inflammatory and restorative ingredients that help mitigate daily UV damage and element overexposure, restoring balance to your skin for long term health.
Other science-focused skin care brands, such as OneSkin and Dr. Sturm, also do a nice job of offering both information and products to consumers on skin health and longevity.
Question: Do you think sunscreen will be explored in hair care and scalp care?
Joan Li: Scalp and hair care with SPF are emerging niches: most recent Mintel data shows that 17% of sun care users have tried hair care products with sun protection in the past year.
We anticipate this segment to see modest growth in the coming years, reaping some of the benefits of the growing hair and scalp health market. SPF haircare can defend against UV exposure along the scalp and color fading.
Question: What is the difference in experience and expectations per gender?
Joan Li: Generally speaking, men tend to focus on functional features such as the level of sun protection, water-resistance, and ease of application/absorption. Men’s lower daily engagement with protective skincare makes convenience particularly critical to motivate frequent application.
Women prefer multifunctional suncare (e.g. skincare with SPF, makeup with SPF) with skin-enhancing benefits like hydration or anti-aging. That being said, younger men (Gen Z and Millennials) tend to share more purchase influencers in common with women, such as an interest in skin feel and popular skincare ingredient inclusions.
Question: Any insight into new filters approved in the EU for the US market?
Christina Ross: Unfortunately, it’s been decades since any new UV filters have been approved for the US market. This is because sunscreens are regulated as OTC drugs in US and have a high bar of entry into market (in many other markets UV filters are regulated as cosmetics).
Lacking the latest technology in UV filters in the US certainly puts formulators, brands, and consumers in a tough spot, and some of the newer UV filters available outside of the US are easier to apply and more effective.
There has been one UV filter, bemotrizinol, put to FDA for approval and it’s expected that we will know if it’s approved before the end of 2025 (it is already used in products in other global markets).
We need to work with FDA to ensure that US sunscreens can be both protective and meet evolving safety and sustainability expectations so the US market can create formulations consumers are excited to use daily for skin cancer prevention.
Question: Can you provide insights into the trend of “all mineral” SPFs formulated with SPF boosters in the US?
Christina Ross: Yes, we’re seeing more mineral sunscreens incorporating SPF boosters. These boosters are ingredients that help enhance SPF efficacy and which are not regulated as UV filters in the US.
Boosters can help with formulation challenges like texture and white cast. However, the “all mineral” claim is not a claim recommended to use if a booster is used as an inactive ingredient because boosters have functional properties that are similar to regulated chemical UV filters.
Regulatory bodies like the FDA don’t formally recognize SPF boosters, so it’s up to brands, retailers, and certifiers to be clear and transparent. At Credo, we push for accurate marketing.
If a product is stated as “100% mineral,” it should only rely on zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide for UV protection, without boosters. However, it seems many suppliers do not counsel their clients in this way, so brands do not necessarily know they’re not 100% mineral.
At the end of the day, if a booster makes a mineral SPF more effective, inclusive, and easier to wear, the benefits of the ingredients to prevent skin cancer often outweigh any potential risks, but marketing should not mislead.
Question: Is Chlorella safe for skin care?
Dr. E. Paige Stout: Yes, chlorella is a safe and effective ingredient for skin care. This active ingredient is sourced from green microalgae (Chlorella) and has been shown to have strong antioxidant activity.